Petroglyphs and Pictographs of the American Southwest

After being skunked on the Hidden Valley Trail near Moab, UT, I asked an Arches Park Ranger for some advice on ancient rock art in the area.  It turns out there are a number of sites that can be visited by car right in Moab.

Prehistoric and historic peoples (Paleo-Indians) inhabited the American southwest and were primarily large game hunters.  They left records of their existence on black rock faces, called desert varnish, seemingly a form of visible time capsule.  A glimpse into their lives shows similar animals that are seen in the area today: big horn sheep, snakes, deer, and similar landscape markers: river routes.

Later (1300-1880 AD), Ute Indians left their marks on boulders and cliff faces, often overlaying their petroglyphs over those from previous cultures.  These can be identified by the presence of horse and rider images, indicative of the Spanish introduction of horses in the 1500s.

On our way north to Wyoming, we stopped at the Sego Canyon Petroglyphs based on a tip from our 1990s Statefarm atlas.  We were pleasantly surprised to find large petroglyph images from the Barrier Canyon period created by people who inhabited the area between 8,000 and 2,000 years ago.  These are truly amazing piees of history, but it was disheartening to see vandalism by those who chose to leave their modern marks on the same rock faces.  

Around the corner from these first images are a set of pictographs.  Pictographs differ from petroglyphs in that they are painted on rather than carved into rocks. Check out Kathy Weiser’s excellent information about the history of Sego Canyon, UT (http://www.legendsofamerica.com/ut-segocanyon.html).

Wed July 27, 2011. Hidden Valley Trail and Arches Sunset

Since dogs aren’t allowed on Arches National Park trails and the park hosts 1 million visitors each year (approximately ½ of which seem to be there right now...), we decided to try a hike outside the park. 

Hidden Valley Trail is just 3 miles south of Moab on 191.  The trail gains 680 feet in elevation quickly through switchbacks over large red and tan boulders (nicknamed Barney Rubble).  Even though we started in the morning, the trail was already burning up and Guinness was wishing she hadn’t worn her black coat.  

Nearing the top of the switchback trail

Once we reached the top, the trail flattens out and meanders through a hot, dry valley flanked by high rocky cliffs.  Others have described seeing petroglyphs on this trail, but even though we had binoculars out and scoured some rocks along the trail, we weren’t lucky enough to see any.  We found shade underneath some scattered Juniper trees and overhanging rocks before heading back down the sun-baked switchbacks.

Hidden Valley

 We decided to head back to camp along the CO river to cool off – if that’s possible in the desert – and to try Arches for some sunset pictures.  It turned out we weren’t the only ones with sunset pictures on the agenda.  We headed toward Turret Arch and The Windows but were disappointed to be greeted by a desert rainstorm.  We waited it out and the clouds began to break up. 

The rain ended, the clouds blew over, and the sunset light was truly phenomenal.  We found a perch behind Turret Arch with a view of The Windows if we climbed high enough.  The few pictures we were able to snap without the .5 million other visitors happened in a window of about 2 milliseconds.  In all seriousness though, there was a very good reason we weren’t the only ones enjoying the soft evening light reflecting off of the red arches.

Turret Arch from below with one of The Windows in the distance

Tues July 26, 2011. Travel Day – Blue Lakes to Arches National Park via Telluride, CO.

The morning was damp, but the rain had stopped and we were able to dry out a bit before packing up.  The hike down from Blue Lakes was quick, and the flip flops and wet wipe bath were much appreciated upon reaching the car! 

We drove to Telluride, CO for lunch and to regroup.  Telluride is tucked into a valley with a waterfall flowing down from the mountaintop almost as if the city council installed a pump to keep it flowing down toward the town.  We had lunch at Smugglers.  Note: good food, but don’t upgrade a sandwich to a “basket.”  A basket means add a shot glass of coleslaw and ~10-12 french fries for $2.

Our first (and, knock on wood, only) car trouble happened: we noticed a back tire wasn’t holding pressure.  Finally found the Telluride Tire and Auto center and $25 and a patch later, had 2 screws to our names. 

The rain from Blue Lakes had followed us down and we made our way toward drier country in southern Utah.  Along the 141 from Telluride, the rain fell farily hard.  Brownish-red flash floods covered the road periodically from the Sedona-like red rock cliffs above us.  The red rocks gradually became drier and we pulled into Moab, UT on our way to Arches National Park. 

Mesa along UT 90 just outside of CO

Arches only has 52 campsites that are reservable, i.e. full during the summer months.  Luckily, there are a number of public campgrounds on UT 128 directly along the Colorado River.  We were surprised to find the campsites relatively secluded with scrub oak, brush, and small trees separating them.  We settled in for the night, feeling lucky to be back on a queen size air mattress instead of backpacking pads!

Mon July 25, 2011. Blue Lakes Pass

Crisp mountain air greeted us as we awoke to a clear blue Colorado sky.  We enjoyed Starbucks instant coffee (yes, a bit fancy for the backcountry, but as Bear Grills would say: a great morale booster to have a “creature comfort.”) and Cliff bars to fuel ourselves for a day hike along the Blue Lakes chain, up the pass toward Sneffels, and a possible summit.

We made our way above Lower Blue after a few switchbacks and just 20 minutes.  The hike was significantly easier than the day before without the weight of backpacks and with the aid of another night of acclimatizing!  The wildflowers above Lower Blue were equally as impressive as lakeside.  They seemed to blanket the entire mountainside and provided a foreground that complemented the blue waters below and the gray mountains above.

Continuing on the trail lead us above the tree line and next to Middle Blue Lake, which was also flanked by columbines.  The switchbacks toward the Blue Lakes pass at 13,000 feet finally came into view and made me question whether we’d make it.  A little farther along and a stream crossing later, we were above Upper Blue Lake and the basin began to roll out beneath us as we climbed higher toward the pass.

Middle Blue Lake

Upper Blue Lake looking north with the pass behind us

The switchbacks up to Blue Lakes Pass begin in a wildflower area, this time filled with yellows and whites.  Once out of the wildflowers, the trail narrows.  Some places had been washed out making for an anxious mom as I held tight to the coonhound’s leash hoping she would stay close behind me.  It turns out she has a version of 4 wheel drive that made her steadier than I!

We reached the pass around noon with Sneffels now above us to the left looking near enough to summit.  But, dark clouds were thickening around us and the southwest sky looked ready to burst.  We snapped some pictures in both directions and decided Sneffels would have to wait for another trip.

Blue Lakes from the pass at 13,000 feet

Looking south into the San Juans from the pass - note the parking lot to the left!

As we headed back down the pass, big, cold raindrops started falling followed closely by pea-sized hail.  We stopped to put on raingear and met a few hikers still trying to reach the pass.  They were undeterred by the storm, but we were concerned enough about lightening and the cold rain that we hurried through the switchbacks to a lower elevation.  The wind picked up and blew rain and hail sideways into us.  Even reaching the tree line didn’t provide much respite.

When we finally made it to the tent, Guinness was soaked to the bone and shivering.  In 4 years, I’ve never seen her shiver.  I dried her off and wrapped her in my down sleeping bag in the tent.  She warmed quickly enough, but it was a good reminder about the need to stay dry in the mountains and to find shelter when it’s needed.

A steady rain shower continued into the evening, and we heard immense rockslides nearby, likely caused by melting snow.  We went down to the lake to get a clear view of the basin but couldn’t see any danger – namely above our campsite.  As others before us, I had a sense of being an uninvited guest in a wild, yet peaceful place.  Nature was continuing on despite our presence.  We were quiet bystanders in a place that goes on with or without (perhaps better in the latter case) human guests.

Sun July 24, 2011. Blue Lakes Trail, Uncompahgre National Forest & Mt. Sneffels Wilderness, CO

After a late morning start out of Montrose, we drove south toward Ridgway, CO.  From Ridgway, head west on 62, then south on 7 to the Blue Lakes Trailhead (stay on 7 after the split with 7a).  7 is a dirt road that winds through cattle country with stunning views of the looming Colorado 14er, Mt. Sneffels, in the distance.  

Mt. Sneffels with the Blue Lakes tucked in to the right

We arrived at the trailhead (a.k.a. Walmart parking lot) and had to park on a side road.  It turns out that day hikers frequent this trail, and most of the folks and dogs we met were coming back around 12:30.

 

The trail from the north side starts at 9,400 ft and switchbacks its way along Dallas Creek.  Most of the trail is through wooded areas providing a welcome break from the near sun.  One stream crossing was aided by trekking poles, but could have been forded relatively easily without them.  1,500 vertical feet and a little over 3 miles later, we arrived at Lower Blue Lake, which truly does live up to its name.  

Lower Blue was surrounded by wildflowers: columbine, lupine, Indian paintbrush, bluebells, and many other shades of yellows, whites, and pinks.  The sound of waterfalls bringing fresh snowmelt into the lake and the outflow down Dallas Creek were the only things we could hear, despite the presence of a few remaining dayhikers and one other backpacking group.  We spent the remaining daylight hours taking it all in and watching a content coonhound explore the water’s edge.

Note: helpful items to take backpacking, especially to the East Dallas Creek drainage include head lamps or other light source, books, playing cards – no campfires are allowed in this area.  Also, organizing backpacking gear somewhere other than a Motel 6 parking lot may aid in the ability to remember these items...

Sat July 23, 2011: Travel day – Dillon, CO to Southwest CO

En route to the San Juan Mountains of southern Colorado, we decided to find a hotel room in Montrose.  Wouldn’t you know, there was a rodeo in town?!?  Likely found the last room in town at the Motel 6 and then headed to our first national park of the trip: Black Canyon of the Gunnison (BCotG).

Driving to BCotG reminded me a lot of heading toward the Grand Canyon, except there was a lot more terrain.  It was similar in that we were seemingly driving along, enjoying the wilderness, and BAM!, a huge gorge opens up in the landscape that is hard to take in by eye.  The BCotG was eroded by the Gunnison River, which has the same vertical drop as the Mississippi River but in merely a ~20 mile section.  The river cut through the canyon so rapidly that erosion did not have time to widen the canyon and is reflected in the sharp, steep walls rising up to 2,000 feet in places.

After cruising the rim, we traveled down to the canyon floor following a dirt road, many switchbacks, and a 16% grade – no, Shana, you can’t go on that road.  It was serious enough that I didn’t have it in neutral.  The Gunnison River in this stretch contains Class 4+ rapids that have been known to take lives.  We made our way back out of the canyon and thanked Ol’ Blue for getting us down and back.

Drove back to the Motel 6 for possibly the best shower of my life, a cold beer, and a good night’s rest.